The NV Fino Jarana, aged in Jerez, has a beautiful, classical Fino nose of chalk, dry hay, dry straw (esparto) and nuts, while the palate is very dry, intense and pungent, long, with a pleasant bitter finish. It's both intense and fine. Drink 2013-2014.

More yellow than Lustau's manzanilla, Jarana is a lovely, proper fino with a nose of iodine, lemon blossom and popcorn. The palate is staunch and doesn't back down; the high-toned nut and citrus flavors seem classic and elevated. And the finish is intense and frames everything in walnut oil and toast.

Light and racy, with quinine, lemon pith and chamomile notes zipping along, this has a little juiciness to match the dryness. Drink now. 2,600 cases made.