The effects of a cool year on this new vintage release is impressive in its texture, acidity and serious aging potential. Crisp apple and white-fruit flavors come together with a tight structure and a pure line of freshness. Drink from 2023.

Disgorged with five grams per liter dosage, Moët's 2013 Extra Brut Grand Vintage is a real success, wafting from the glass with aromas of pear, fresh bread, Meyer lemon, nougat and white flowers. Medium to full-bodied, chiseled and fine-boned, with an enveloping core of bright, vibrant fruit and a pretty pinpoint mousse, it concludes with a precise, penetrating finish. Incisive but not austere, it's an impressive effort, reflecting good levels of maturity in this cool, late harvest. It's as fine a rendition of this cuvée as I can remember tasting.

This elegant Champagne displays citrus, mineral and toast character in equal measure, with bright notes of preserved lemon and verbena layered with smoke, chalk, brioche and nut flavors. The interplay is backed by deftly knit acidity, riding the fine and creamy mousse through to the lingering finish. Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. Disgorged May 2019. Drink now through 2030.